Wed 13th June 2007 - Co. Wexford
Here we are at Pembroke Dock. We have arrived early (8pm) for the 0245 night ferry to Rosslare. The plan is to get some dinner and then some shuteye before boarding in a serious effort to avoid driving off the ferry at 0615 whilst falling asleep at the wheel. Dinner goes well. The rest of our queue of early travellers seems fairly orderly and civilised. Apart, that is from the hand-painted blue transit van whose occupants immediately take my attention. In the front seats are Dad (50’s), boy (early 20’s) and large mum with babe in arms. It transpires that in the rear are three teenage girls, two ‘toddlers’ and two boys aged 10 or 11. They all seem friendly with the occupants of another car some way down the queue – a woman in her twenties and another young boy. Chaos ensues almost immediately. The child occupants of both vehicles continuously approach the two vehicles in turn and demand entry banging on the doors and eventually getting in, slamming the doors, and immediately getting out again to go to the other vehicle and do the same. Eventually dad shouts at all concerned to pack it in. The two toddlers are then observed running in and around the other cars trying to avoid the teenage girls who are trying to recapture them. The girls are Vicky Pollard look-alikes with language to match. The two boys meanwhile decide to wander amongst the other queued cars taking a very close interest in their contents until dad again realises everyone is watching them, gathers up the whole family, and takes the van out of the queue and parks some distance away against the perimeter fence. The boys are released almost immediately accompanied this time by the man in his 20’s. He occupies himself doing cartwheels and handstands against the fence whilst the two boys start clambering over a JCB digger parked nearby. Next they jump into the cab and start pulling the levers and pedals. Man shouts for them to get out using guttural language. They climb down and one of the boy feels at liberty to relieve himself through the perimeter fence. At this dad himself jumps out of the van to remonstrate with the boy, telling him he should not do so in full view of the queue. The boy moves to the back of the JCB and then urinates on that instead. Honour preserved and job done, dad returns to the van’s cab. They then move on and try to gain access to the back door of the booking-in cubicle – when the men are inside. Shortly afterwards they are told to clear off again. All this proved very entertaining but there was no way I was going to nod off before the ferry. I also decide to book a cabin after all, in case the family decided they were going to run riot in the public area on board ship. The ferry arrives on time and we get a couple of hours sleep at last.
Thursday 14th June 2007 – Co. Wexford
We drive off the ferry at 0630 and head north. We park up on the street in Wexford where Lyris cooks bacon and eggs and Huw finds a free wi-fi connection and is able to check the email and bank accounts etc. After brekkie we head further north still and find a campsite called the Trading Post, book in and go straight to sleep. A leisurely day follows. In the evening we walk to the thatched small pub nearby to find it is locked. One of the local inhabitants tells us, ‘he only opens when there is a queue of people, sometimes 8 or 9 at night and sometimes not at all’. We decide to give it a miss and go to bed early. We sleep soundly until about 9am.
Friday 15th June 2007 – Co. Wexford
We set off to Enniscorthy and in particular the National 1798 Rebellion Centre there. This is well worth a visit for only 6 euros. When the lady in the ticket office says we can leave our motor home in the car park all day if we like, Lyris cheekily asks if we can stay overnight. Amazingly, the manager is consulted and agrees to our request, suggesting that we park around the back of the centre where it is quieter. We go into town to sample the Guinness and then return in the evening to park around the back of the exhibition centre. Moments later a security patrol man arrives. It turns out he is not there to check us, but he reveals that the back of the building is regularly stoned by the local yobs intent on breaking the windows. The latest attack was last night. He suggests that we park instead in the more open area of the front car park. We need no further encouragement and after some discussion about whether to find a campsite decide to stay in the front car park as it is covered by a prominent security camera. Thanks manager. There really is no such thing as a free lunch!
Saturday 16th June 2007 – Co. Carlow
We are awake early, relieved not to have come under attack during the night and set off at about 6 am for Tullow, Co Carlow where there is the Altamont arboretum and gardens. It doesn’t open until 9 am so we head into downtown Tullow and take on board supplies of food and wine. The arboretum turns out to be excellent with lots of mature trees, fantastic borders and wild gardens surrounding lakes teaming with water fowl.
We then head east to Kilkenny where there is a campsite within walking distance of the city. The ‘N’ roads are okay but the ‘R’ roads seem to have a corrugated surface with the occasional pothole. Progress is slowed, but at least we can enjoy the cool countryside. One village we pass through has cars parked along a single track road for a least a mile each side. It turns out to be a big funeral. There must have been a thousand people attending. Progress is tortuous and tense. There are pedestrians having endless reunions in the middle of the narrow road. We finally arrive at our destination and once safely parked on our pitch we walk into Kilkenny and take in the castle.
The city centre is awash with hundreds of young people apparently celebrating the day’s important hurling match. Their rowdy antics provide additional entertainment for us people watchers. Afterwards it’s back to the campsite for dinner and a few glasses of red.
Sunday 17th June 2007 – Co. Kilkenny
We are not off until midday, not just because we had to go down the ‘farmhouse’ to pay as no one had been on site. The farmhouse was more like a mansion. We set off south on ‘R’ roads to find Kells, where there is a medieval priory. The lady at the farmhouse also recommended a number of places to visit, including the round tower at Kilree, which is nearby. We called in at the Nicholas Mosse pottery factory at Bennetsbridge on the way, but found the doors locked. We get to the tower and managed to pull in at the side of the narrow lane and climbed over the style to visit the site. It is a graveyard shrouded in large trees and with some recent as well as ancient burials. The tower itself is next to a ruined chapel and dominates the surrounding countryside. We press on to the priory which turns out to be …. huge. You can see from what is left that it was heavily fortified and really more like a castle than a religious community. We have lunch just outside the car park, because there is a height barrier here to deter ‘travellers’. We drive southwest to Clogheen where there is a campsite and farm. When we arrive there are lots of kids running around everywhere and we question whether it is suitable for a couple of ageing campers. However, it is Sunday and within the hour most of them have left the site, no doubt to be home again for school next day. The coast is now clear for us to take a walk in the evening sunshine taking in the farm trail, past the deer, emus, alpacas, geese, chickens and pheasants. We are also interested in the display of old farm implements and tools, many of which we can remember in use. Walking into the village, we find an Indian takeaway where we order our supper and carry it home to enjoy with a glass of red.
Monday 18th June 2007 – Co. Tipperary/Co. Waterford
We are off by 11am and heading north to Tipperary. Rain sets in. In Tipperary we see a familiar sight – Tesco’s, and decide to patronise the place for new supplies. Grateful as we are we decide not to walk around the town in the heavy rain and double back to Waterford where we can visit the Waterford Crystal Factory in the dry. After having a picnic in their large car park and exchanging pleasantries with a local guy interested in our van, we cough up for the conducted tour. It really exceeds our expectations. You see everything from a glowing blob of molten glass to a finely cut and polished finished product. We begin to realise why this stuff costs as much as it does. Its 5.30pm and we are looking for a site for the night. Newton Cove on the south coast of Co. Waterford is our night stop. We arrive and book in and settle on our pitch, electric hook up and tune in the satellite for Corrie (2 episodes). Next door to us is a very curious family grouping in a small caravan. We first notice a three year old girl playing in the sandpit. Next, a man who looks like Alex Higgins’ granddad approaches us intent on conversation and we gauge that he has been drinking more than us. He is smoking a very large cigar and sporting a couple of days beard growth. It seems he is supervising the girl. Another man, about the same age as granddad, then confides in us that we must not give him any of our claret. The girl takes a bucket of sand back to the caravan and after some loud shouting and cursing she re-appears with a female who is possibly her grandmother and they both play in the sandpit as if nothing has happened. Alex’s granddad reappears and regales us a tale of last nights local car accident where a teenager and his girlfriend drove over a cliff at “150 miles an hour, over the heads of two fishermen into the sea, and the car was reduced to the shape of a golf ball”. Whilst pondering this information and also wondering how the two men, the woman and the girl will settle in the two-berth caravan, they hitch up and drive off with Alex’s granddad at the wheel. There’s nothing else to do now but settle down to watch Big Brother with the remaining red wine.
Tuesday 19th June 2007 – Co. Cork
Up early (8am) and it’s raining. We both rush to the shower block as we have been told that the power will be off from 9am. We then leave on an ‘R’ road around the coast to Dungarvan. This takes us around the spectacular scenery of the ‘Copper Coast’. As well as taking in the rugged scenery, we stop off at a preserved copper mine. All this is still in the rain. We arrive in Dungarvan about midday and look around the castle, take in the history and do a bit of shopping. It’s wet here too. I suppose we are lucky that the Americans haven’t arrived yet in any great numbers and it’s still pretty quiet for tourists. In the late afternoon we press on to Cork and our destination for the night Blarney, Co. Cork. We park up in torrential rain and decide to stay here two nights so that we can look around Blarney and Cork City tomorrow. We get very wet as we level up, hook up the electric and tune in the satellite. We put the awning (a bit like shop blinds) out so that we have at least a dry place over the door. Whilst he empties the unmentionable cassette, Lyris is preparing chilli con carne for dinner. Afterwards we discover there is Quill Bar across the road which demands a visit before bedtime.
Wednesday 20th June 2007 – Co. Cork
We wake up early. It is raining. It has rained all night. At about 11am we decide to walk into Blarney to see the Castle etc etc. At about 11:02am we decide to return to Myfanwy where we stay for the rest of the day watching tv and drinking red and white wine. This day is declared a ‘washout’ and we go to bed early.
Thursday 21st June 2007 – Co. Cork
We drive off the site down to Blarney. It is not actually raining but it’s not looking very clever either. Blarney itself is packed with tourists no doubt wanting to kiss the blarney stone. We make a risk-assessment and decide neither of our backs are up to it anyway and plump instead to the park and ride into nearby Cork where we can wander around town and find some lunch and do a bit of shopping. It is the Summer Festival in Cork and we find the city a most pleasant and unrushed experience where everything we need is achieved by about 4:30pm. We drive out of the park and ride and Lyris finds a campsite for the night at Garrettstown House, an old manor near Kinsale - about 40 km (note our familiarity with metric measurement) south of Cork city and near the coast. The weather has cleared up and the pitch has excellent views. Tomorrow the plan is to drive the West Cork Scenic Coastal route and although we realise that sunshine may be out of the question, the prayer is ‘no rain please.’
Friday 22nd June 2007 – Co. Cork
We awaken at 7am to bright sunshine and small woolly clouds. We have cooked breakfast, showers and a quick potter around the estate all before 9.30 when we start engines and drive around the R600 coastal road to Timoleague. The road is tortuous because it is narrow and the high hedges are trimmed at such an angle that they are narrower at the top than at the bottom. Thus when we meet the occasional oncoming vehicle we cannot get right over onto our side of the road without vegetation, and possibly hard wood, striking the top nearside. We resolve to go slowly. The weather is fine and the scenery is lovely. At Timoleague there is a ruined abbey which demands a visit on foot. We see a white heron in the estuary and after consulting the bird book we realise we are in fact looking at our first egret. After coffee we continue the journey to Clonakilty. We manage to park in the main street and have a walk around this colourful town. We love the atmosphere. Like everywhere we have been streets in town are narrow and manic with traffic. The shops are very different and the big chain stores do not seem to have much influence here. At lunchtime we press on around the coast, now on the wider N71 to our night stop – Skibbereen (and please note I am not making up the names). We secure our pitch and connect up electric. Next we walk the km or so into downtown Skibbereen. There are cute bars and shops here so we Eldon Hotel’s ‘porch bar’ for a couple of Murphy’s stouts before a brief look round the shops and then walk back again. It’s fine still so we have barbeque steaks outside for a change. The Irish school holidays start about now so we are expecting the campsites to become busier. We haven’t yet had to book and hope it continues that way.
Saturday 23rd June 2007 – Co. Cork
We manage to get on the road by midday and almost immediately stop at Lidl’s to replenish food and, more importantly, drink. Then we continue west on the N71, which deteriorates with narrows, rough surface and some tricky adverse cambers. No point rushing anywhere. We take a wrong turn and end up in Ballydehob. The narrow streets make turning around difficult, but there is a shop and Lyris brings aboard newspapers and fags, so it wasn’t too bad. We continue along the coast, stopping now and again to get a snap of the views. Bantry is a region of lush vegetation, palm trees and semi-tropical plants. There are mountain ranges, sweeping sea views and cascading mountain streams. We stop off in Bantry harbour and have a muse around the town before continuing on the R71. We don’t get far and we park up, more or less on the beach, at Eagle Point, in Bantry Bay. It’s nice here. We have supplies and may stay a couple of days.
Sunday 24th June 2007 – Co. Cork
It is fine weather this morning. It’s a day for taking things easy, so we have a leisurely breakfast; Huw cycles down to the local garage to get the News of the World and Sunday Times; we go fishing and enjoy a bike ride and ramble. By dinner time we have explored the whole Eagle Point peninsular and clambered over every rock. In keeping with our usual achievement, we have managed to catch no fish. Drizzle starts off and on at teatime so Lyris prepares dinner and we settle down to an evening of wine and Sky TV.
Monday 25th June 2007 – Co. Kerry
It’s Monday morning and we are off early through Glengarriffe to Adrigole. We leave Bantry Bay and slowly climb over the Healy Pass.
There is spectacular scenery all the way to Lauragh where we are back down at sea level and then along the coastal road to Kenmare, where we stop for lunch and food shopping. Huw buys a trendy hat, very much in keeping with his fashionable disposition and ideal for the forthcoming niece’s wedding in August. After lunch we start on the ‘Ring of Kerry’. According to the tourist office, this is undoubtedly Ireland’s most popular scenic drive. Probably best achieved in a 4X4, progress is slow in our motorhome. Nevertheless, we shake, rattle and roll down to Castlecove where we camp at the Wave Crest campsite. The views along the way have been breathtaking and luckily there has been very little traffic. Also, it has been sunny – off and on – all day. The site is good, too. We are parked in a secluded cove and very close to a rocky beach. All around us is unusual fauna. Huge phormium tenax plants seem to grow wild in amongst the ferns, as do lots of fuchia bushes, gunnera and yuccas. It’s a nice place to have a barbeque and try out a bottle of wine, or two. There is no free wi-fi broadband in range here, though – still, it’s better than working.
Tuesday 26th June 2007 – Co. Kerry
Too much wine really, or was it the Irish whiskey nightcap? Anyway, we have overslept. Breakfast is nearer to midday. Lyris wants to go for a hike. Huw is not so keen but agrees on condition he can take a hiking stick and wear his new hat. We walk a mile and a half to Caherdaniel village, pause for Guinness and lunch at the Blind Piper, and then another mile and a half to Derrynane National Historic Park. We pass the Ogham Stone on the way to the historic house and gardens. We take a look at the nature trail but decide to give it a miss and walk around the gardens instead. There are lots of big sub-tropical plants to enjoy. After having our fill, Huw begins to flag at the prospect of walking back. He normally regards a trip to the shower block as a walk. Nevertheless he pretends he is on a route march and annoys Lyris by whistling the song that US marines sing in films when on their training jogs. We eventually arrive back safely, if a little knackered. Its fine and fair and we settle down to chilli con carne and wine whilst looking out over the beautiful Kenmare Bay.
Wednesday 27th June 2007 – Co. Kerry
Today we set off the complete the Ring of Kerry trip. We are off early and take in all the best views. It has just dawned on us that we are travelling around the ring the ‘wrong way’. By this we mean that ALL the numerous coach tours are coming towards us. Further to that on many stretches of the N70 ring road it has been apparent that the traffic coming towards us has a much wider lane, whilst Myfanwy has barely enough width to play with. It may be our imagination, but Lyris thinks it is for the bus tours. Once off the ‘ring’, we turn left at Castletown and then along the Dingle peninsular to Dingle town itself. There we park in the grounds of Ballintaggart House. After setting up the van for the night, we set off for the mile or so walk down to the sea. We find ourselves on a small private beach where we are the only humans around. Nice.
Thursday 28th June 2007 – Co Kerry
We are off early again and drive into Dingle town for a look round. Rain has set in this day and we have a pretty wet trudge around the sleepy harbour town. After looking around an art gallery and getting some essentials from their equivalent of Costcutters we drive on, still in the rain, back up the peninsular to Tralee, Kerry’s county town. We arrive there about lunchtime and we find a park 10 minutes from town where we can spend the night. In the evening we walk into Tralee town and try out a couple of the bars before plumping for dinner at the excellent David Norris restaurant in Ivy Terrace. Well stuffed, we struggle back to the campsite and settle down for the night. There is no brandy so we watch question time and go to bed. It rains most of the night.
Friday 29th June 2007 – Co. Limerick
It’s dry this morning. By 10am we are breakfasted and have filled up with fresh water and dumped the ‘grey’ tank as well as the ‘black’. You probably didn’t wish to know that. Anyway, we are bound for Limerick, about 100km northwest on the N21. I take back all I said about the N roads. The N21 is smooth, level and wide. We are in Limerick in no time at all. The trouble is we decide at the last minute to give it a miss and head on up the Shannon River to Lough Derg. Once there we can park right down on the shore. The sun is out now and it is a splendid afternoon, if a bit breezy. We level up Myfanwy and enjoy the picturesque backdrop. Not long after we settle a people carrier arrives and parks alongside, between us and the shore. There are three canoes on top, a mother and four kids under twelve inside who communicate by shouting at each other from close quarters. They pitch two small tents nearby. The initial utopian feel of the place has taken a bit of a dive. Lyris awakes from slumber in the back and we decide to cook dinner and retire early.
Saturday 30th June 2007 – Co. Clare
Once again, it has rained all night. However, it is fine when we get up. Great stuff! We set off for Ennis, Co. Clare’s county town. We are there in less than an hour, and stop at the main supermarket to replenish supplies. This goes almost without event until we come out again. The almost empty car park has filled to overflowing with people attending a local games day next door and we have difficulty manoeuvring Myfanwy out onto the road again, through crowds and casually parked vehicles. Once out we are on the road to Ennistimon where we stop briefly to photograph the waterfall in the village. There is also a free wi-fi connection here so we do a bit of internet banking and catch up with email. Then it is off over the narrow bridge to the Cliffs of Moher. This is actually a 10km or so road along the top of the almost 700ft cliffs. Half way along is an information office and viewpoint where we are asked for 10 euros to park. A brief discussion and we decide ‘maybe, on a clear day’ and press on to the nearby campsite at Dooley Pier.
This is right at the end of the cliffs and we have an excellent view from our pitch and out of our cab along the length of the Cliffs of Moher…… for no extra charge.
Sunday 1st July 2007 – Co. Galway
We head north along the N67 towards Galway. We stop off to visit the Burren Smokehouse where we purchase some of the excellent smoked fish. Continuing along the way we stop at several places to view the strange grey limestone giant crazy paving that prevails here. Coming into East Galway we find our campsite. This is the Ballyloughane Camp Site. They charge almost three times the price shown in the directory and it turns out to have mediocre facilities to say the least. It appears to be run down and to cap it all, just after putting out the weeks washing, there is very heavy rain in the evening. Deep joy! No need for a final rinse then. In a break in the weather we venture out on foot to visit the only local alehouse which turns out to be a large hotel without much atmosphere. We return after just one Guinness and make the best of the situation.
Monday 2nd July 2007 – Co. Galway
It’s dry and windy this morning. We peg out the washing again and hope it doesn’t blow away. We drive into Galway City and into Aldi’s car park. An eastern European man in a yellow coat tells us we can not park there because Myfanwy can not fit into a marked bay. Lyris protests that we are only popping into Aldi’s to do our weekly shop. He is having none of it and when things turn ugly we drive off west on the N59 to Oughterard. This is a pleasant village where we can park and do some shopping. We finish off with a coffee at the Boat Inn (Lonely Planet recommended). Continuing west we pass Loughs and superb mountains until we turn off the main road for a hairy 15km to Roundstone which is on the coast. We are lucky to find a pitch at the beach. Huw goes fishing. Guess what? No bites. Out of the panoramic front windows we can see surf, sand and rocky beaches all around. The weather is good too with only a couple of showers today. We like it here. In the late evening Lyris is looking out of the front and spots what she thinks are two small dogs on the beach in the distance. As they come closer we see that it is two hares – travelling along the deserted beach towards us as if they own it. In the dimming daylight they hop nonchalantly past the van and disappear along the road.
Tuesday 3rd July 2007 – Co. Galway/Co. Mayo
We languish in bed and finally leave the pitch about 11.45. We carry on along the coast to Clifden, a reasonably large town where we stop to mooch around and minor shopping. Here we join the N59 again for a while until we stop at the Connemara National Park Visitor Centre.. We walk around the ‘short’ trail which turns out to be a million steps down through a wooded waterfall and then – you guessed – a million steps back up to the centre. There is a very interesting museum here about bog land life through the ages. Along the road we find Kylemore Abbey, which demands a visit by its sheer imposing presence. Off again, we turn away from the N59, onto the R335 and drive on into Co. Mayo around Killary Harbour, which is billed in Lonely Planet as Ireland’s only fjord. It is pretty spectacular, but did not prepare us for the route out through the Doo Lough Pass to Louisburgh. We had to stop lots of times for snaps of the mountains. In Louisburgh we missed our intended campsite but found another a few miles on towards Westport. Although pretty basic it was cheap enough and we are almost self sufficient in Myfanwy anyway. There is a pub a short walk down the road, so what more could you ask. Most people seem to arrive at the pub after closing time and by the time we leave (about 12.30am) we have had rather too many Guinness’s and whiskey chasers.
Wednesday 4th July 2007 – Co. Mayo
Up late again – it shouldn’t be allowed. It seems like it’s a choice of lamb sausages for breakfast. They were from the local butchers and very nice. There is only cold water for washing up so we have to store all the crockery until some is available. After midday we drive into Westport, where we find - amongst other good things - a real fishmonger, where we buy local wild salmon and locally smoked kippers. The next destination is Achill Island which we can access by driving across the Achill Sound. We camp for the night at Keel Bay, more or less on the beach, overlooked by tall cliffs.
Thursday 5th July 2007 – Co. Mayo
This morning it is raining. We nevertheless decide to motor on around Achill Island. The road to Achill Head is hairy, narrow and on the cliff face. Views are good though and the deserted sandy bay where the road ends is worth the trouble. Next we go to the Deserted Village at Slievemore. The ruins of about 100 dwellings believed to be 12th century. It’s raining here and there really are no inhabitants. They haven’t even left anyone behind to man a gift shop. The short walk from the car leaves us needing a change of socks and trousers. The rain steps up a gear and we decide to give the nearby megalithic tomb a miss and travel on around the Coastal Route to the campsite on the north side of the island. Once there, we quickly realise that it falls short of expectations and has little or no appeal. There is no one around to persuade us to stay and after a short committee meeting we decide to return to the beach campsite in Keel where we stayed last night. After parking up on the same pitch we notice it is getting windy when to satellite dish blows off its setting. Huw takes it down and tunes in to the local TV where we are told to expect 70 mph winds. Myfanwy starts to rock and roll. The tent campers around us start to panic as tents collapse. We watch as over half of them pack up again and drive off.
Friday 6th July 2007 – Co. Mayo
We survive the night. It brighter this morning and the winds have dropped. We are on the road before 9am, back the Achill Sound and off the island. We take the N59 north to Bangor across endless peat bogs. It’s fairly flat and featureless until we turn inland towards Cross Molina where we stop at the small supermarket. On the spur of the moment we decide to visit the ruins of nearby Errew Abbey, on Lough Conn. It’s 5 km down a single road with grass growing up the middle. At the end there is nowhere to turn except a farm gate. Lyris asks the farmer, who turns out to be most obliging and lets us turn and also park up in his yard. He tells us which way to walk to find the abbey and, more importantly, that the bull (as in the ‘Beware of the Bull’ sign) is secure.
We put on our best hiking boots and strike out for the abbey. It is 13th century and set on a peninsula projecting into Lough Conn. It’s a beautiful setting. We get the photos and struggle back through the wet grass to the farm. We meet the farmer again who is keen to set the world to rights before we can depart. When we get back to civilisation we continue on the N59 to Ballina where we set up camp for the night. It’s still raining off and on but we are dry and the steaks and wine are good.
Saturday 7th July 2007 – Co. Sligo
It dry, more or less, this morning and we pass further around the coast road into Co. Sligo and into Sligo City. Parking a motorhome here is stressful but we eventually manage to find a space near the Information Office for tourists. A walk round the shops and a glass of Guinness later we are off to Strandhill beach where we find a pitch for Myfanwy. Lyris notices that our offside mirror is damaged – a bit of the plastic cowling has been knocked off. We debate driving back into Sligo to look for it but then decide instead to stay here, have some late lunch and enjoy a siesta. Strandhill beach is OK. It has a couple of pubs and shops. The evening is fine and we both watch the sun (yes, the sun) go down.
Sunday 8th July 2007 – Co. Sligo/Co. Leitrim/Co. Cavan/Co. Fermanagh
We visit Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery and take the conducted tour. Sounds grand, but in fact it’s only us and a couple of Americans from Wisconsin. The guide is very good and we learn a lot about life (or at least death) 6000 years ago. Next we go back to Sligo to look for the bit off the mirror. No luck. Then we drive through Co. Leitrim, Co. Cavan into Co. Fermanagh and Enniskillen. We circumnavigate Upper Lough Erne and stop at Lisnaskea for the night. This site is right on the bank of the river Colebrooke. There are perch, pike, dace and trout here. Huw goes fishing and after a while gives up realising that the list of fish is rather academic. It rains.
Monday 9th July 2007 – Co. Fermanagh
It’s raining this morning and we drive into Enniskillen, where we manage to park in a public car park. We walk around town in the rain and have lunch at the Buttermarket. Then we drive north along Lower Lough Erne to Kesh where there is no room at the site for us. Plan B is to drive back to Lisnarrick where there is plenty of room, it’s cheaper and the facilities are excellent. It’s still raining. Today is a bit of a washout really.
Tuesday 10th July 2007 – Co. Donegal
We take the N56 into Co. Donegal – yes back into the Republic where diesel is cheap. We stop at Donegal town where we mooch around the shops and find an internet café. Next we press on to Killybegs, Ireland’s premier fishing port, where we leave the main road for a white knuckle ride around the ‘scenic road’ to Kilcar and our campsite at Derrylahan. There are no pubs or shops here but we are parked overlooking the estuary and the local big hill – Slieve League. We go for a long walk, complete with hiking boots and sticks. Early night, straight after Big Brother.
Wednesday 11th July 2007 – Co. Donegal
Lyris’s research reveals that the pretty way back to civilisation is on the ‘white’ roads (i.e. uncategorised) via the Glengesh Pass. After some discussion Huw agrees and we soon find that, although the road is narrow, there is very little traffic and the surface is mostly better than the N roads. The scenery and the hairpin bends are both up to expectation. All too soon we are back on the N59 again at Ardara, where we follow the coast around to Dunglow. This town is remarkable, from the point of view that the campsite is actually in town. It’s not far to walk to the pubs and restaurants, of which there are quite a few. There’s more good news - it hasn’t rained today and we are near the beach. We pop into Dunglow for a Guinness or two. As we pass the bank, half a dozen soldiers arrive in an armoured car and get out and stand in the street with machine guns poised. We wonder what excitement we have stumbled upon when a Group 4 van arrives to deliver cash to the bank. It really is a bit of an anti-climax. Still we are soon settled with our Guinness watching the boats in the harbour.
Thursday 12th July 2007 – Co. Donegal
Today we are making a diversion inland to visit Glenveagh National Park. We drive through some isolated peaks and across boggy moor land, when suddenly a large car park appears in a small wood. It is full of cars. Luckily, a nice man in a yellow jacket tells us to park Myfanwy in the coach park. At the visitor centre we buy bus tickets to the castle, which is about 5 km down the Lough. The castle is a fairly modern ‘folly’ built in the 1890’s in the style of Balmoral, so instead of paying to trudge around it, we walk around the impressive gardens and climb up the trail to the viewing point above. We discuss walking back but decide not to, as we have yet to drive north to Downies (or Downings on some maps). Downies turns out to be a seaside resort with spectacular beaches and views of the surrounding mountains. A small village it has four or five bars and the majority of the population seems to be staying in the huge static caravan site which takes a few touring vans and motorhomes like us. The only pitch is next to the gate. We park and head for a bar up on the hill. Looking down at the beach we notice that a lot of cars are being parked up on the sand, all facing the same way. After some speculation we eventually ask one of the locals who tells us it will be a drive in cinema showing ‘Jaws’. Last night apparently there were technical problems and the show did not finish until 1.30am, by which time some had gone home because they were falling asleep and others were worried about the tide coming in. We return to Casey’s Camp Site. The night is sleepless. Mainly due to drunken teenage revellers returning and others using the gateway to turn around cars on the way home, each having to toot loudly to say goodbye to their pals. The night was rounded off by some tortured soul howling Fuck Off continuously at about 4.30am. We had just dropped off at dawn when a seagull lands on the roof and finds something interesting to peck at.
Friday 13th July 2007 – Co. Londonderry/Co. Tyrone
We give up about 6am and get up for bacon and eggs. By 7.30am, we wave goodbye to Casey’s and head off to Letterkenny and then on to Derry. Londonderry is an interesting walled city. It’s not raining yet so we have a little walk around the walls and then have coffee al fresco and pop in to the local equivalent of ‘Grace Bros.’. We give the ‘Bogside’ a miss, although we had to park in the street uncomfortably close to it. It is known as the maiden city because the walls have never been breached by an invader (or so an Irishman told us). On the road again, we travel to Strabane where we try out the new Asda’s and then on to the Sperrin Mountains where we camp for the night in the woods. It’s quiet here. And so to bed, perchance to sleep.
Saturday 14th July 2007 – Co. Londonderry/Co. Antrim
We slept. We are off early into the Sperrin Mountains. Scenery is spectacular. We pass through Tobermore and Dungiven looking for a campsite. They are all full of seaside butlinesque holidaymakers. It is raining, off and on. Things are getting fraught. In desperation we phone Tully’s Farm near Coleraine. They have a pitch for us! In the murk, we take a wrong turn and end up at the marina campsite, near Ballymoney. They also have a pitch, but without electric. We manage. Things are grim, but could be worse. At least we get a peaceful nights sleep and a shower in the morning.
Sunday 15th July 2007 – Co. Antrim
Today is bright sunshine. The first totally clear day we have had. We move off early and drive around the coast to Bushmills where we get a site almost next to the ‘oldest distillery in the world’. We find that there is a bus to the Giants Causeway, almost immediately. We scarcely have time to grab our walking sticks before we are at the causeway. We walk the cliffs in bright sunshine and return to the causeway itself by the lower pathway. It is absolutely the best experience.
We take lots of photos and return to the campsite on a bus. Like the outward journey, we are the only passengers. It’s almost like our own private taxi. We like it here and decide to stay another night. Dinner and wine go well, but the single malt keeps us up until the small hours.
Monday 16th July 2007 – Co. Antrim
We both feel ill. It’s not long before we realise that it is self inflicted. We spend the day in camp at Bushmills. The furthest we venture is the shower block. In the afternoon and evening there is thunder and heavy rain. An early night is the order of the day.
Tuesday 17th July 2007 – Co Antrim
It’s bright and sunny. We leave camp at about 10am and are off around the Causeway Scenic Route. We stop off at Carrickarade Rope Bridge and get some pics of Sheep Island in the bright sunshine. We press on to Ballycastle for lunch, and then on to Glenarif Forest Park. Here we can camp on Forestry Commission Land. It’s early afternoon so we go for a hike in the park, looking for some spectacular waterfalls. Not far into the woods, Huw spots a red squirrel, fairly close to us, in a fir tree. The animal sits fairly still whilst we take photos and Lyris spots two others in the same tree. Neither of us has seen a red squirrel in the wild before. We wander around the woods and discover that the waterfalls are some kilometres down the hill. Huw’s boots are rubbing so we decide to have refreshments at the café and then head back to camp. Some moments after we arrive a thunderstorm breaks and we watch it from the dry safety of Myfanwy’s lounge. Good timing, eh?
Wednesday 18th July 2007 – Co Antrim
We wake up a bit late, through slight over-indulgence. The sun is shining so we go into nearby Cushendall to get more food and wine. The food shopping is easy but there is only one off licence in the village and we have to ask directions. As often is the case in Ireland, distances are given in minutes. (e.g. ‘where is the wine store?’ answer: ‘Its two minutes, so it is.’) We eventually find it and purchase the wanted bottles. As the sun is beating down we decide to go back to the forest for another night. This time we find all the waterfalls, and take the photos, after a couple of hours wandering around. We get back to our pitch in the late afternoon. Lyris decides it’s a good drying day so she does the washing whilst Huw rigs up some washing lines. The drying function takes place whilst we enjoy a glass of wine and cook outside.
Thursday 19th July 2007 – Co Antrim/Co Down
We like the forestry commission sites and decide to head for another today. We tour through Ballymena, Antrim and Belfast where we visit the City Hospital. There is no problem; Huw has to meet a consultant whose USB memory chip we found on the Giant’s Causeway. Consultant is delighted and gives us a large box of chocolates. We press on to Delamont Forest Park, near Killyleagh. Here we settle in and get the bikes out to cycle round the park. We do see the herons in the tops of trees, but fail to spot the red squirrels, seals or badgers. We also get a good view of the Mountains of Mourne with mist around the lower slopes. This exercise must be good for an ageing Eddie Mercx and Huw has the yellow jersey, being first back to Myfanwy. We have barbequed chicken and white wine, giving thanks for a warm sunny evening – a rarity in Ireland this summer.
Friday 20th July 2007 – Co Down
Today is overcast, but dry. We move closer to the Mourne Mountains, stopping off at Downpatrick. We take time out to visit the Cathedral, see St Patrick’s grave and go to the Old Gaol Museum. We also get a wi-fi internet whilst parked in the main street. After catching up with email, we press on another few miles to Tollymore Forest Park, near Castlewellan. This is right at the foot of the mountains. What a shame it heavy rain has apparently set in for the night.
Saturday 21st July 2007 – Co Down/Co Louth
We wake up to dampness but no rain. We drive into Newcastle for an internet wi-fi connection and then on around the coast road past the Mourne Mountains to our campsite at Rostrevor. There is a big problem. Myfanwy will not fit under the 10ft height barrier to enter the site. It’s still early afternoon so we decide to drive up the very minor roads into the Mourne Mountains and in particular the ‘silent valley’.
We get there for a late lunch and see that a wedding is taking place at the tourist office. Nevertheless we get some photos of the mountain scenery and head off into Newry. From there we follow the coast back into the republic. We know there are no proper sites between here and Dublin and the plan is to wild camp on the beach somewhere. We are now in Co. Louth and we are both getting a little nervous about camping in the remote areas as we have seen several cars full of eastern European males apparently ‘cruising’ at the few places we stopped to consider. We stop at a hotel/steakhouse for a beer. It is soon made clear that we cannot stay in their car park tonight so we move on south. At about 7pm we see a thatched old pub called the Tourists Rest. 
It is just on the border of Co. Louth and Co. Meath near Drogheda. They have a large car park and security cameras. We go in and find about a dozen men having a good ‘crack’ in the public bar. After sitting down with our drinks, Lyris walks into the group and asks if anyone knows where we can stay. After the expected jocularity everyone agrees that we can stay in the car park, provided we stay until closing time in the bar. We are soon settled inside and feel very welcome. Huw is in the smoking area with a group chatting when he is surprised that everyone seems to be bringing him free Guinness pints. It transpires that Lyris is reading palms in the bar and as there is no charge, everyone read wanted to buy us a drink. Just after 2am we realised that there were very few people left and the bar staff were asking if we minded going as they were trying to close up. We don’t remember much until the morning when, as we were cooking breakfast the cleaner, who had been in the bar last night, came up and asked if we needed anything.
Sunday 22nd July 2007 – Co Meath/Dublin
We are booked on the Dublin to Holyhead ferry tonight and we set off before midday. On the way we decide to visit the New Grange Neolithic burial chambers nearby and soon have tours of both Knowth and New Grange under way. Inside the New Grange burial site we have to go along a hundred foot stone passage to get to the chamber at the end where the sun strikes the headstone at dawn on the right day. We are told that, where the passage gets very narrow, not to panic, but to turn sideways as its easier to get through. In Huw’s case he discovers it is easier if he does NOT turn sideways! We stay for lunch and then head off into Dublin to get our ferry. It’s soon goodbye Ireland and hello Anglesea.
Here we are at Pembroke Dock. We have arrived early (8pm) for the 0245 night ferry to Rosslare. The plan is to get some dinner and then some shuteye before boarding in a serious effort to avoid driving off the ferry at 0615 whilst falling asleep at the wheel. Dinner goes well. The rest of our queue of early travellers seems fairly orderly and civilised. Apart, that is from the hand-painted blue transit van whose occupants immediately take my attention. In the front seats are Dad (50’s), boy (early 20’s) and large mum with babe in arms. It transpires that in the rear are three teenage girls, two ‘toddlers’ and two boys aged 10 or 11. They all seem friendly with the occupants of another car some way down the queue – a woman in her twenties and another young boy. Chaos ensues almost immediately. The child occupants of both vehicles continuously approach the two vehicles in turn and demand entry banging on the doors and eventually getting in, slamming the doors, and immediately getting out again to go to the other vehicle and do the same. Eventually dad shouts at all concerned to pack it in. The two toddlers are then observed running in and around the other cars trying to avoid the teenage girls who are trying to recapture them. The girls are Vicky Pollard look-alikes with language to match. The two boys meanwhile decide to wander amongst the other queued cars taking a very close interest in their contents until dad again realises everyone is watching them, gathers up the whole family, and takes the van out of the queue and parks some distance away against the perimeter fence. The boys are released almost immediately accompanied this time by the man in his 20’s. He occupies himself doing cartwheels and handstands against the fence whilst the two boys start clambering over a JCB digger parked nearby. Next they jump into the cab and start pulling the levers and pedals. Man shouts for them to get out using guttural language. They climb down and one of the boy feels at liberty to relieve himself through the perimeter fence. At this dad himself jumps out of the van to remonstrate with the boy, telling him he should not do so in full view of the queue. The boy moves to the back of the JCB and then urinates on that instead. Honour preserved and job done, dad returns to the van’s cab. They then move on and try to gain access to the back door of the booking-in cubicle – when the men are inside. Shortly afterwards they are told to clear off again. All this proved very entertaining but there was no way I was going to nod off before the ferry. I also decide to book a cabin after all, in case the family decided they were going to run riot in the public area on board ship. The ferry arrives on time and we get a couple of hours sleep at last.
Thursday 14th June 2007 – Co. Wexford
We drive off the ferry at 0630 and head north. We park up on the street in Wexford where Lyris cooks bacon and eggs and Huw finds a free wi-fi connection and is able to check the email and bank accounts etc. After brekkie we head further north still and find a campsite called the Trading Post, book in and go straight to sleep. A leisurely day follows. In the evening we walk to the thatched small pub nearby to find it is locked. One of the local inhabitants tells us, ‘he only opens when there is a queue of people, sometimes 8 or 9 at night and sometimes not at all’. We decide to give it a miss and go to bed early. We sleep soundly until about 9am.
Friday 15th June 2007 – Co. Wexford
We set off to Enniscorthy and in particular the National 1798 Rebellion Centre there. This is well worth a visit for only 6 euros. When the lady in the ticket office says we can leave our motor home in the car park all day if we like, Lyris cheekily asks if we can stay overnight. Amazingly, the manager is consulted and agrees to our request, suggesting that we park around the back of the centre where it is quieter. We go into town to sample the Guinness and then return in the evening to park around the back of the exhibition centre. Moments later a security patrol man arrives. It turns out he is not there to check us, but he reveals that the back of the building is regularly stoned by the local yobs intent on breaking the windows. The latest attack was last night. He suggests that we park instead in the more open area of the front car park. We need no further encouragement and after some discussion about whether to find a campsite decide to stay in the front car park as it is covered by a prominent security camera. Thanks manager. There really is no such thing as a free lunch!
Saturday 16th June 2007 – Co. Carlow
We are awake early, relieved not to have come under attack during the night and set off at about 6 am for Tullow, Co Carlow where there is the Altamont arboretum and gardens. It doesn’t open until 9 am so we head into downtown Tullow and take on board supplies of food and wine. The arboretum turns out to be excellent with lots of mature trees, fantastic borders and wild gardens surrounding lakes teaming with water fowl.
We then head east to Kilkenny where there is a campsite within walking distance of the city. The ‘N’ roads are okay but the ‘R’ roads seem to have a corrugated surface with the occasional pothole. Progress is slowed, but at least we can enjoy the cool countryside. One village we pass through has cars parked along a single track road for a least a mile each side. It turns out to be a big funeral. There must have been a thousand people attending. Progress is tortuous and tense. There are pedestrians having endless reunions in the middle of the narrow road. We finally arrive at our destination and once safely parked on our pitch we walk into Kilkenny and take in the castle.
The city centre is awash with hundreds of young people apparently celebrating the day’s important hurling match. Their rowdy antics provide additional entertainment for us people watchers. Afterwards it’s back to the campsite for dinner and a few glasses of red.
Sunday 17th June 2007 – Co. Kilkenny
We are not off until midday, not just because we had to go down the ‘farmhouse’ to pay as no one had been on site. The farmhouse was more like a mansion. We set off south on ‘R’ roads to find Kells, where there is a medieval priory. The lady at the farmhouse also recommended a number of places to visit, including the round tower at Kilree, which is nearby. We called in at the Nicholas Mosse pottery factory at Bennetsbridge on the way, but found the doors locked. We get to the tower and managed to pull in at the side of the narrow lane and climbed over the style to visit the site. It is a graveyard shrouded in large trees and with some recent as well as ancient burials. The tower itself is next to a ruined chapel and dominates the surrounding countryside. We press on to the priory which turns out to be …. huge. You can see from what is left that it was heavily fortified and really more like a castle than a religious community. We have lunch just outside the car park, because there is a height barrier here to deter ‘travellers’. We drive southwest to Clogheen where there is a campsite and farm. When we arrive there are lots of kids running around everywhere and we question whether it is suitable for a couple of ageing campers. However, it is Sunday and within the hour most of them have left the site, no doubt to be home again for school next day. The coast is now clear for us to take a walk in the evening sunshine taking in the farm trail, past the deer, emus, alpacas, geese, chickens and pheasants. We are also interested in the display of old farm implements and tools, many of which we can remember in use. Walking into the village, we find an Indian takeaway where we order our supper and carry it home to enjoy with a glass of red.
Monday 18th June 2007 – Co. Tipperary/Co. Waterford
We are off by 11am and heading north to Tipperary. Rain sets in. In Tipperary we see a familiar sight – Tesco’s, and decide to patronise the place for new supplies. Grateful as we are we decide not to walk around the town in the heavy rain and double back to Waterford where we can visit the Waterford Crystal Factory in the dry. After having a picnic in their large car park and exchanging pleasantries with a local guy interested in our van, we cough up for the conducted tour. It really exceeds our expectations. You see everything from a glowing blob of molten glass to a finely cut and polished finished product. We begin to realise why this stuff costs as much as it does. Its 5.30pm and we are looking for a site for the night. Newton Cove on the south coast of Co. Waterford is our night stop. We arrive and book in and settle on our pitch, electric hook up and tune in the satellite for Corrie (2 episodes). Next door to us is a very curious family grouping in a small caravan. We first notice a three year old girl playing in the sandpit. Next, a man who looks like Alex Higgins’ granddad approaches us intent on conversation and we gauge that he has been drinking more than us. He is smoking a very large cigar and sporting a couple of days beard growth. It seems he is supervising the girl. Another man, about the same age as granddad, then confides in us that we must not give him any of our claret. The girl takes a bucket of sand back to the caravan and after some loud shouting and cursing she re-appears with a female who is possibly her grandmother and they both play in the sandpit as if nothing has happened. Alex’s granddad reappears and regales us a tale of last nights local car accident where a teenager and his girlfriend drove over a cliff at “150 miles an hour, over the heads of two fishermen into the sea, and the car was reduced to the shape of a golf ball”. Whilst pondering this information and also wondering how the two men, the woman and the girl will settle in the two-berth caravan, they hitch up and drive off with Alex’s granddad at the wheel. There’s nothing else to do now but settle down to watch Big Brother with the remaining red wine.
Tuesday 19th June 2007 – Co. Cork
Up early (8am) and it’s raining. We both rush to the shower block as we have been told that the power will be off from 9am. We then leave on an ‘R’ road around the coast to Dungarvan. This takes us around the spectacular scenery of the ‘Copper Coast’. As well as taking in the rugged scenery, we stop off at a preserved copper mine. All this is still in the rain. We arrive in Dungarvan about midday and look around the castle, take in the history and do a bit of shopping. It’s wet here too. I suppose we are lucky that the Americans haven’t arrived yet in any great numbers and it’s still pretty quiet for tourists. In the late afternoon we press on to Cork and our destination for the night Blarney, Co. Cork. We park up in torrential rain and decide to stay here two nights so that we can look around Blarney and Cork City tomorrow. We get very wet as we level up, hook up the electric and tune in the satellite. We put the awning (a bit like shop blinds) out so that we have at least a dry place over the door. Whilst he empties the unmentionable cassette, Lyris is preparing chilli con carne for dinner. Afterwards we discover there is Quill Bar across the road which demands a visit before bedtime.
Wednesday 20th June 2007 – Co. Cork
We wake up early. It is raining. It has rained all night. At about 11am we decide to walk into Blarney to see the Castle etc etc. At about 11:02am we decide to return to Myfanwy where we stay for the rest of the day watching tv and drinking red and white wine. This day is declared a ‘washout’ and we go to bed early.
Thursday 21st June 2007 – Co. Cork
We drive off the site down to Blarney. It is not actually raining but it’s not looking very clever either. Blarney itself is packed with tourists no doubt wanting to kiss the blarney stone. We make a risk-assessment and decide neither of our backs are up to it anyway and plump instead to the park and ride into nearby Cork where we can wander around town and find some lunch and do a bit of shopping. It is the Summer Festival in Cork and we find the city a most pleasant and unrushed experience where everything we need is achieved by about 4:30pm. We drive out of the park and ride and Lyris finds a campsite for the night at Garrettstown House, an old manor near Kinsale - about 40 km (note our familiarity with metric measurement) south of Cork city and near the coast. The weather has cleared up and the pitch has excellent views. Tomorrow the plan is to drive the West Cork Scenic Coastal route and although we realise that sunshine may be out of the question, the prayer is ‘no rain please.’
Friday 22nd June 2007 – Co. Cork
We awaken at 7am to bright sunshine and small woolly clouds. We have cooked breakfast, showers and a quick potter around the estate all before 9.30 when we start engines and drive around the R600 coastal road to Timoleague. The road is tortuous because it is narrow and the high hedges are trimmed at such an angle that they are narrower at the top than at the bottom. Thus when we meet the occasional oncoming vehicle we cannot get right over onto our side of the road without vegetation, and possibly hard wood, striking the top nearside. We resolve to go slowly. The weather is fine and the scenery is lovely. At Timoleague there is a ruined abbey which demands a visit on foot. We see a white heron in the estuary and after consulting the bird book we realise we are in fact looking at our first egret. After coffee we continue the journey to Clonakilty. We manage to park in the main street and have a walk around this colourful town. We love the atmosphere. Like everywhere we have been streets in town are narrow and manic with traffic. The shops are very different and the big chain stores do not seem to have much influence here. At lunchtime we press on around the coast, now on the wider N71 to our night stop – Skibbereen (and please note I am not making up the names). We secure our pitch and connect up electric. Next we walk the km or so into downtown Skibbereen. There are cute bars and shops here so we Eldon Hotel’s ‘porch bar’ for a couple of Murphy’s stouts before a brief look round the shops and then walk back again. It’s fine still so we have barbeque steaks outside for a change. The Irish school holidays start about now so we are expecting the campsites to become busier. We haven’t yet had to book and hope it continues that way.
Saturday 23rd June 2007 – Co. Cork
We manage to get on the road by midday and almost immediately stop at Lidl’s to replenish food and, more importantly, drink. Then we continue west on the N71, which deteriorates with narrows, rough surface and some tricky adverse cambers. No point rushing anywhere. We take a wrong turn and end up in Ballydehob. The narrow streets make turning around difficult, but there is a shop and Lyris brings aboard newspapers and fags, so it wasn’t too bad. We continue along the coast, stopping now and again to get a snap of the views. Bantry is a region of lush vegetation, palm trees and semi-tropical plants. There are mountain ranges, sweeping sea views and cascading mountain streams. We stop off in Bantry harbour and have a muse around the town before continuing on the R71. We don’t get far and we park up, more or less on the beach, at Eagle Point, in Bantry Bay. It’s nice here. We have supplies and may stay a couple of days.
Sunday 24th June 2007 – Co. Cork
It is fine weather this morning. It’s a day for taking things easy, so we have a leisurely breakfast; Huw cycles down to the local garage to get the News of the World and Sunday Times; we go fishing and enjoy a bike ride and ramble. By dinner time we have explored the whole Eagle Point peninsular and clambered over every rock. In keeping with our usual achievement, we have managed to catch no fish. Drizzle starts off and on at teatime so Lyris prepares dinner and we settle down to an evening of wine and Sky TV.
Monday 25th June 2007 – Co. Kerry
It’s Monday morning and we are off early through Glengarriffe to Adrigole. We leave Bantry Bay and slowly climb over the Healy Pass.
There is spectacular scenery all the way to Lauragh where we are back down at sea level and then along the coastal road to Kenmare, where we stop for lunch and food shopping. Huw buys a trendy hat, very much in keeping with his fashionable disposition and ideal for the forthcoming niece’s wedding in August. After lunch we start on the ‘Ring of Kerry’. According to the tourist office, this is undoubtedly Ireland’s most popular scenic drive. Probably best achieved in a 4X4, progress is slow in our motorhome. Nevertheless, we shake, rattle and roll down to Castlecove where we camp at the Wave Crest campsite. The views along the way have been breathtaking and luckily there has been very little traffic. Also, it has been sunny – off and on – all day. The site is good, too. We are parked in a secluded cove and very close to a rocky beach. All around us is unusual fauna. Huge phormium tenax plants seem to grow wild in amongst the ferns, as do lots of fuchia bushes, gunnera and yuccas. It’s a nice place to have a barbeque and try out a bottle of wine, or two. There is no free wi-fi broadband in range here, though – still, it’s better than working.Tuesday 26th June 2007 – Co. Kerry
Too much wine really, or was it the Irish whiskey nightcap? Anyway, we have overslept. Breakfast is nearer to midday. Lyris wants to go for a hike. Huw is not so keen but agrees on condition he can take a hiking stick and wear his new hat. We walk a mile and a half to Caherdaniel village, pause for Guinness and lunch at the Blind Piper, and then another mile and a half to Derrynane National Historic Park. We pass the Ogham Stone on the way to the historic house and gardens. We take a look at the nature trail but decide to give it a miss and walk around the gardens instead. There are lots of big sub-tropical plants to enjoy. After having our fill, Huw begins to flag at the prospect of walking back. He normally regards a trip to the shower block as a walk. Nevertheless he pretends he is on a route march and annoys Lyris by whistling the song that US marines sing in films when on their training jogs. We eventually arrive back safely, if a little knackered. Its fine and fair and we settle down to chilli con carne and wine whilst looking out over the beautiful Kenmare Bay.
Wednesday 27th June 2007 – Co. Kerry
Today we set off the complete the Ring of Kerry trip. We are off early and take in all the best views. It has just dawned on us that we are travelling around the ring the ‘wrong way’. By this we mean that ALL the numerous coach tours are coming towards us. Further to that on many stretches of the N70 ring road it has been apparent that the traffic coming towards us has a much wider lane, whilst Myfanwy has barely enough width to play with. It may be our imagination, but Lyris thinks it is for the bus tours. Once off the ‘ring’, we turn left at Castletown and then along the Dingle peninsular to Dingle town itself. There we park in the grounds of Ballintaggart House. After setting up the van for the night, we set off for the mile or so walk down to the sea. We find ourselves on a small private beach where we are the only humans around. Nice.
Thursday 28th June 2007 – Co Kerry
We are off early again and drive into Dingle town for a look round. Rain has set in this day and we have a pretty wet trudge around the sleepy harbour town. After looking around an art gallery and getting some essentials from their equivalent of Costcutters we drive on, still in the rain, back up the peninsular to Tralee, Kerry’s county town. We arrive there about lunchtime and we find a park 10 minutes from town where we can spend the night. In the evening we walk into Tralee town and try out a couple of the bars before plumping for dinner at the excellent David Norris restaurant in Ivy Terrace. Well stuffed, we struggle back to the campsite and settle down for the night. There is no brandy so we watch question time and go to bed. It rains most of the night.
Friday 29th June 2007 – Co. Limerick
It’s dry this morning. By 10am we are breakfasted and have filled up with fresh water and dumped the ‘grey’ tank as well as the ‘black’. You probably didn’t wish to know that. Anyway, we are bound for Limerick, about 100km northwest on the N21. I take back all I said about the N roads. The N21 is smooth, level and wide. We are in Limerick in no time at all. The trouble is we decide at the last minute to give it a miss and head on up the Shannon River to Lough Derg. Once there we can park right down on the shore. The sun is out now and it is a splendid afternoon, if a bit breezy. We level up Myfanwy and enjoy the picturesque backdrop. Not long after we settle a people carrier arrives and parks alongside, between us and the shore. There are three canoes on top, a mother and four kids under twelve inside who communicate by shouting at each other from close quarters. They pitch two small tents nearby. The initial utopian feel of the place has taken a bit of a dive. Lyris awakes from slumber in the back and we decide to cook dinner and retire early.
Saturday 30th June 2007 – Co. Clare
Once again, it has rained all night. However, it is fine when we get up. Great stuff! We set off for Ennis, Co. Clare’s county town. We are there in less than an hour, and stop at the main supermarket to replenish supplies. This goes almost without event until we come out again. The almost empty car park has filled to overflowing with people attending a local games day next door and we have difficulty manoeuvring Myfanwy out onto the road again, through crowds and casually parked vehicles. Once out we are on the road to Ennistimon where we stop briefly to photograph the waterfall in the village. There is also a free wi-fi connection here so we do a bit of internet banking and catch up with email. Then it is off over the narrow bridge to the Cliffs of Moher. This is actually a 10km or so road along the top of the almost 700ft cliffs. Half way along is an information office and viewpoint where we are asked for 10 euros to park. A brief discussion and we decide ‘maybe, on a clear day’ and press on to the nearby campsite at Dooley Pier.
This is right at the end of the cliffs and we have an excellent view from our pitch and out of our cab along the length of the Cliffs of Moher…… for no extra charge.Sunday 1st July 2007 – Co. Galway
We head north along the N67 towards Galway. We stop off to visit the Burren Smokehouse where we purchase some of the excellent smoked fish. Continuing along the way we stop at several places to view the strange grey limestone giant crazy paving that prevails here. Coming into East Galway we find our campsite. This is the Ballyloughane Camp Site. They charge almost three times the price shown in the directory and it turns out to have mediocre facilities to say the least. It appears to be run down and to cap it all, just after putting out the weeks washing, there is very heavy rain in the evening. Deep joy! No need for a final rinse then. In a break in the weather we venture out on foot to visit the only local alehouse which turns out to be a large hotel without much atmosphere. We return after just one Guinness and make the best of the situation.
Monday 2nd July 2007 – Co. Galway
It’s dry and windy this morning. We peg out the washing again and hope it doesn’t blow away. We drive into Galway City and into Aldi’s car park. An eastern European man in a yellow coat tells us we can not park there because Myfanwy can not fit into a marked bay. Lyris protests that we are only popping into Aldi’s to do our weekly shop. He is having none of it and when things turn ugly we drive off west on the N59 to Oughterard. This is a pleasant village where we can park and do some shopping. We finish off with a coffee at the Boat Inn (Lonely Planet recommended). Continuing west we pass Loughs and superb mountains until we turn off the main road for a hairy 15km to Roundstone which is on the coast. We are lucky to find a pitch at the beach. Huw goes fishing. Guess what? No bites. Out of the panoramic front windows we can see surf, sand and rocky beaches all around. The weather is good too with only a couple of showers today. We like it here. In the late evening Lyris is looking out of the front and spots what she thinks are two small dogs on the beach in the distance. As they come closer we see that it is two hares – travelling along the deserted beach towards us as if they own it. In the dimming daylight they hop nonchalantly past the van and disappear along the road.
Tuesday 3rd July 2007 – Co. Galway/Co. Mayo
We languish in bed and finally leave the pitch about 11.45. We carry on along the coast to Clifden, a reasonably large town where we stop to mooch around and minor shopping. Here we join the N59 again for a while until we stop at the Connemara National Park Visitor Centre.. We walk around the ‘short’ trail which turns out to be a million steps down through a wooded waterfall and then – you guessed – a million steps back up to the centre. There is a very interesting museum here about bog land life through the ages. Along the road we find Kylemore Abbey, which demands a visit by its sheer imposing presence. Off again, we turn away from the N59, onto the R335 and drive on into Co. Mayo around Killary Harbour, which is billed in Lonely Planet as Ireland’s only fjord. It is pretty spectacular, but did not prepare us for the route out through the Doo Lough Pass to Louisburgh. We had to stop lots of times for snaps of the mountains. In Louisburgh we missed our intended campsite but found another a few miles on towards Westport. Although pretty basic it was cheap enough and we are almost self sufficient in Myfanwy anyway. There is a pub a short walk down the road, so what more could you ask. Most people seem to arrive at the pub after closing time and by the time we leave (about 12.30am) we have had rather too many Guinness’s and whiskey chasers.
Wednesday 4th July 2007 – Co. Mayo
Up late again – it shouldn’t be allowed. It seems like it’s a choice of lamb sausages for breakfast. They were from the local butchers and very nice. There is only cold water for washing up so we have to store all the crockery until some is available. After midday we drive into Westport, where we find - amongst other good things - a real fishmonger, where we buy local wild salmon and locally smoked kippers. The next destination is Achill Island which we can access by driving across the Achill Sound. We camp for the night at Keel Bay, more or less on the beach, overlooked by tall cliffs.
Thursday 5th July 2007 – Co. Mayo
This morning it is raining. We nevertheless decide to motor on around Achill Island. The road to Achill Head is hairy, narrow and on the cliff face. Views are good though and the deserted sandy bay where the road ends is worth the trouble. Next we go to the Deserted Village at Slievemore. The ruins of about 100 dwellings believed to be 12th century. It’s raining here and there really are no inhabitants. They haven’t even left anyone behind to man a gift shop. The short walk from the car leaves us needing a change of socks and trousers. The rain steps up a gear and we decide to give the nearby megalithic tomb a miss and travel on around the Coastal Route to the campsite on the north side of the island. Once there, we quickly realise that it falls short of expectations and has little or no appeal. There is no one around to persuade us to stay and after a short committee meeting we decide to return to the beach campsite in Keel where we stayed last night. After parking up on the same pitch we notice it is getting windy when to satellite dish blows off its setting. Huw takes it down and tunes in to the local TV where we are told to expect 70 mph winds. Myfanwy starts to rock and roll. The tent campers around us start to panic as tents collapse. We watch as over half of them pack up again and drive off.
Friday 6th July 2007 – Co. Mayo
We survive the night. It brighter this morning and the winds have dropped. We are on the road before 9am, back the Achill Sound and off the island. We take the N59 north to Bangor across endless peat bogs. It’s fairly flat and featureless until we turn inland towards Cross Molina where we stop at the small supermarket. On the spur of the moment we decide to visit the ruins of nearby Errew Abbey, on Lough Conn. It’s 5 km down a single road with grass growing up the middle. At the end there is nowhere to turn except a farm gate. Lyris asks the farmer, who turns out to be most obliging and lets us turn and also park up in his yard. He tells us which way to walk to find the abbey and, more importantly, that the bull (as in the ‘Beware of the Bull’ sign) is secure.
We put on our best hiking boots and strike out for the abbey. It is 13th century and set on a peninsula projecting into Lough Conn. It’s a beautiful setting. We get the photos and struggle back through the wet grass to the farm. We meet the farmer again who is keen to set the world to rights before we can depart. When we get back to civilisation we continue on the N59 to Ballina where we set up camp for the night. It’s still raining off and on but we are dry and the steaks and wine are good.Saturday 7th July 2007 – Co. Sligo
It dry, more or less, this morning and we pass further around the coast road into Co. Sligo and into Sligo City. Parking a motorhome here is stressful but we eventually manage to find a space near the Information Office for tourists. A walk round the shops and a glass of Guinness later we are off to Strandhill beach where we find a pitch for Myfanwy. Lyris notices that our offside mirror is damaged – a bit of the plastic cowling has been knocked off. We debate driving back into Sligo to look for it but then decide instead to stay here, have some late lunch and enjoy a siesta. Strandhill beach is OK. It has a couple of pubs and shops. The evening is fine and we both watch the sun (yes, the sun) go down.
Sunday 8th July 2007 – Co. Sligo/Co. Leitrim/Co. Cavan/Co. Fermanagh
We visit Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery and take the conducted tour. Sounds grand, but in fact it’s only us and a couple of Americans from Wisconsin. The guide is very good and we learn a lot about life (or at least death) 6000 years ago. Next we go back to Sligo to look for the bit off the mirror. No luck. Then we drive through Co. Leitrim, Co. Cavan into Co. Fermanagh and Enniskillen. We circumnavigate Upper Lough Erne and stop at Lisnaskea for the night. This site is right on the bank of the river Colebrooke. There are perch, pike, dace and trout here. Huw goes fishing and after a while gives up realising that the list of fish is rather academic. It rains.
Monday 9th July 2007 – Co. Fermanagh
It’s raining this morning and we drive into Enniskillen, where we manage to park in a public car park. We walk around town in the rain and have lunch at the Buttermarket. Then we drive north along Lower Lough Erne to Kesh where there is no room at the site for us. Plan B is to drive back to Lisnarrick where there is plenty of room, it’s cheaper and the facilities are excellent. It’s still raining. Today is a bit of a washout really.
Tuesday 10th July 2007 – Co. Donegal
We take the N56 into Co. Donegal – yes back into the Republic where diesel is cheap. We stop at Donegal town where we mooch around the shops and find an internet café. Next we press on to Killybegs, Ireland’s premier fishing port, where we leave the main road for a white knuckle ride around the ‘scenic road’ to Kilcar and our campsite at Derrylahan. There are no pubs or shops here but we are parked overlooking the estuary and the local big hill – Slieve League. We go for a long walk, complete with hiking boots and sticks. Early night, straight after Big Brother.
Wednesday 11th July 2007 – Co. Donegal
Lyris’s research reveals that the pretty way back to civilisation is on the ‘white’ roads (i.e. uncategorised) via the Glengesh Pass. After some discussion Huw agrees and we soon find that, although the road is narrow, there is very little traffic and the surface is mostly better than the N roads. The scenery and the hairpin bends are both up to expectation. All too soon we are back on the N59 again at Ardara, where we follow the coast around to Dunglow. This town is remarkable, from the point of view that the campsite is actually in town. It’s not far to walk to the pubs and restaurants, of which there are quite a few. There’s more good news - it hasn’t rained today and we are near the beach. We pop into Dunglow for a Guinness or two. As we pass the bank, half a dozen soldiers arrive in an armoured car and get out and stand in the street with machine guns poised. We wonder what excitement we have stumbled upon when a Group 4 van arrives to deliver cash to the bank. It really is a bit of an anti-climax. Still we are soon settled with our Guinness watching the boats in the harbour.
Thursday 12th July 2007 – Co. Donegal
Today we are making a diversion inland to visit Glenveagh National Park. We drive through some isolated peaks and across boggy moor land, when suddenly a large car park appears in a small wood. It is full of cars. Luckily, a nice man in a yellow jacket tells us to park Myfanwy in the coach park. At the visitor centre we buy bus tickets to the castle, which is about 5 km down the Lough. The castle is a fairly modern ‘folly’ built in the 1890’s in the style of Balmoral, so instead of paying to trudge around it, we walk around the impressive gardens and climb up the trail to the viewing point above. We discuss walking back but decide not to, as we have yet to drive north to Downies (or Downings on some maps). Downies turns out to be a seaside resort with spectacular beaches and views of the surrounding mountains. A small village it has four or five bars and the majority of the population seems to be staying in the huge static caravan site which takes a few touring vans and motorhomes like us. The only pitch is next to the gate. We park and head for a bar up on the hill. Looking down at the beach we notice that a lot of cars are being parked up on the sand, all facing the same way. After some speculation we eventually ask one of the locals who tells us it will be a drive in cinema showing ‘Jaws’. Last night apparently there were technical problems and the show did not finish until 1.30am, by which time some had gone home because they were falling asleep and others were worried about the tide coming in. We return to Casey’s Camp Site. The night is sleepless. Mainly due to drunken teenage revellers returning and others using the gateway to turn around cars on the way home, each having to toot loudly to say goodbye to their pals. The night was rounded off by some tortured soul howling Fuck Off continuously at about 4.30am. We had just dropped off at dawn when a seagull lands on the roof and finds something interesting to peck at.
Friday 13th July 2007 – Co. Londonderry/Co. Tyrone
We give up about 6am and get up for bacon and eggs. By 7.30am, we wave goodbye to Casey’s and head off to Letterkenny and then on to Derry. Londonderry is an interesting walled city. It’s not raining yet so we have a little walk around the walls and then have coffee al fresco and pop in to the local equivalent of ‘Grace Bros.’. We give the ‘Bogside’ a miss, although we had to park in the street uncomfortably close to it. It is known as the maiden city because the walls have never been breached by an invader (or so an Irishman told us). On the road again, we travel to Strabane where we try out the new Asda’s and then on to the Sperrin Mountains where we camp for the night in the woods. It’s quiet here. And so to bed, perchance to sleep.
Saturday 14th July 2007 – Co. Londonderry/Co. Antrim
We slept. We are off early into the Sperrin Mountains. Scenery is spectacular. We pass through Tobermore and Dungiven looking for a campsite. They are all full of seaside butlinesque holidaymakers. It is raining, off and on. Things are getting fraught. In desperation we phone Tully’s Farm near Coleraine. They have a pitch for us! In the murk, we take a wrong turn and end up at the marina campsite, near Ballymoney. They also have a pitch, but without electric. We manage. Things are grim, but could be worse. At least we get a peaceful nights sleep and a shower in the morning.
Sunday 15th July 2007 – Co. Antrim
Today is bright sunshine. The first totally clear day we have had. We move off early and drive around the coast to Bushmills where we get a site almost next to the ‘oldest distillery in the world’. We find that there is a bus to the Giants Causeway, almost immediately. We scarcely have time to grab our walking sticks before we are at the causeway. We walk the cliffs in bright sunshine and return to the causeway itself by the lower pathway. It is absolutely the best experience.
We take lots of photos and return to the campsite on a bus. Like the outward journey, we are the only passengers. It’s almost like our own private taxi. We like it here and decide to stay another night. Dinner and wine go well, but the single malt keeps us up until the small hours.Monday 16th July 2007 – Co. Antrim
We both feel ill. It’s not long before we realise that it is self inflicted. We spend the day in camp at Bushmills. The furthest we venture is the shower block. In the afternoon and evening there is thunder and heavy rain. An early night is the order of the day.
Tuesday 17th July 2007 – Co Antrim
It’s bright and sunny. We leave camp at about 10am and are off around the Causeway Scenic Route. We stop off at Carrickarade Rope Bridge and get some pics of Sheep Island in the bright sunshine. We press on to Ballycastle for lunch, and then on to Glenarif Forest Park. Here we can camp on Forestry Commission Land. It’s early afternoon so we go for a hike in the park, looking for some spectacular waterfalls. Not far into the woods, Huw spots a red squirrel, fairly close to us, in a fir tree. The animal sits fairly still whilst we take photos and Lyris spots two others in the same tree. Neither of us has seen a red squirrel in the wild before. We wander around the woods and discover that the waterfalls are some kilometres down the hill. Huw’s boots are rubbing so we decide to have refreshments at the café and then head back to camp. Some moments after we arrive a thunderstorm breaks and we watch it from the dry safety of Myfanwy’s lounge. Good timing, eh?
Wednesday 18th July 2007 – Co Antrim
We wake up a bit late, through slight over-indulgence. The sun is shining so we go into nearby Cushendall to get more food and wine. The food shopping is easy but there is only one off licence in the village and we have to ask directions. As often is the case in Ireland, distances are given in minutes. (e.g. ‘where is the wine store?’ answer: ‘Its two minutes, so it is.’) We eventually find it and purchase the wanted bottles. As the sun is beating down we decide to go back to the forest for another night. This time we find all the waterfalls, and take the photos, after a couple of hours wandering around. We get back to our pitch in the late afternoon. Lyris decides it’s a good drying day so she does the washing whilst Huw rigs up some washing lines. The drying function takes place whilst we enjoy a glass of wine and cook outside.
Thursday 19th July 2007 – Co Antrim/Co Down
We like the forestry commission sites and decide to head for another today. We tour through Ballymena, Antrim and Belfast where we visit the City Hospital. There is no problem; Huw has to meet a consultant whose USB memory chip we found on the Giant’s Causeway. Consultant is delighted and gives us a large box of chocolates. We press on to Delamont Forest Park, near Killyleagh. Here we settle in and get the bikes out to cycle round the park. We do see the herons in the tops of trees, but fail to spot the red squirrels, seals or badgers. We also get a good view of the Mountains of Mourne with mist around the lower slopes. This exercise must be good for an ageing Eddie Mercx and Huw has the yellow jersey, being first back to Myfanwy. We have barbequed chicken and white wine, giving thanks for a warm sunny evening – a rarity in Ireland this summer.
Friday 20th July 2007 – Co Down
Today is overcast, but dry. We move closer to the Mourne Mountains, stopping off at Downpatrick. We take time out to visit the Cathedral, see St Patrick’s grave and go to the Old Gaol Museum. We also get a wi-fi internet whilst parked in the main street. After catching up with email, we press on another few miles to Tollymore Forest Park, near Castlewellan. This is right at the foot of the mountains. What a shame it heavy rain has apparently set in for the night.
Saturday 21st July 2007 – Co Down/Co Louth
We wake up to dampness but no rain. We drive into Newcastle for an internet wi-fi connection and then on around the coast road past the Mourne Mountains to our campsite at Rostrevor. There is a big problem. Myfanwy will not fit under the 10ft height barrier to enter the site. It’s still early afternoon so we decide to drive up the very minor roads into the Mourne Mountains and in particular the ‘silent valley’.
We get there for a late lunch and see that a wedding is taking place at the tourist office. Nevertheless we get some photos of the mountain scenery and head off into Newry. From there we follow the coast back into the republic. We know there are no proper sites between here and Dublin and the plan is to wild camp on the beach somewhere. We are now in Co. Louth and we are both getting a little nervous about camping in the remote areas as we have seen several cars full of eastern European males apparently ‘cruising’ at the few places we stopped to consider. We stop at a hotel/steakhouse for a beer. It is soon made clear that we cannot stay in their car park tonight so we move on south. At about 7pm we see a thatched old pub called the Tourists Rest. 
It is just on the border of Co. Louth and Co. Meath near Drogheda. They have a large car park and security cameras. We go in and find about a dozen men having a good ‘crack’ in the public bar. After sitting down with our drinks, Lyris walks into the group and asks if anyone knows where we can stay. After the expected jocularity everyone agrees that we can stay in the car park, provided we stay until closing time in the bar. We are soon settled inside and feel very welcome. Huw is in the smoking area with a group chatting when he is surprised that everyone seems to be bringing him free Guinness pints. It transpires that Lyris is reading palms in the bar and as there is no charge, everyone read wanted to buy us a drink. Just after 2am we realised that there were very few people left and the bar staff were asking if we minded going as they were trying to close up. We don’t remember much until the morning when, as we were cooking breakfast the cleaner, who had been in the bar last night, came up and asked if we needed anything.Sunday 22nd July 2007 – Co Meath/Dublin
We are booked on the Dublin to Holyhead ferry tonight and we set off before midday. On the way we decide to visit the New Grange Neolithic burial chambers nearby and soon have tours of both Knowth and New Grange under way. Inside the New Grange burial site we have to go along a hundred foot stone passage to get to the chamber at the end where the sun strikes the headstone at dawn on the right day. We are told that, where the passage gets very narrow, not to panic, but to turn sideways as its easier to get through. In Huw’s case he discovers it is easier if he does NOT turn sideways! We stay for lunch and then head off into Dublin to get our ferry. It’s soon goodbye Ireland and hello Anglesea.
