We left home (later than planned) at 1:25pm. Immediate plan is M25, M40, M42, M6. However, by the time we had battle round the M25 and onto the M40 we both realize we are knackered from the packing effort and look for the nearest overnight stop - which turns out to be near Banbury. Put the gas on, tune in the TV and start on the dinner, whilst sampling the first couple of bottles on our travelling wine rack. There’s not much to see here so after dinner it’s a sensible early night. Zonk.
Wednesday 5th July
We are off north. We grim determination and with foot hard down, Stoke, Warrington, Liverpool and Blackburn all pass by painlessly and at last we are in the Lake District. The scenery is much more interesting and we plump for the luxury of the Caravan Club site at Low Park Wood, south of Kendal. Nice place. Our hard standing pitch is in thick woodland and right next the river Kent. After plugging in to the electric we rush down to look at the river.
Yes, it is big, but the water is clear and low. Back to our van, Myfanwy, to cook dinner and then heavy rain starts hammering the roof. So we turn up the TV and open the next red on the rack. Rain lasts most of the night.
Thursday 6th July
The sun is shining through the trees this morning. We waste no time going down to the river, which is in spate. The water is brown and deep. Huw goes round to the warden and buys a day’s fishing permit for trout and salmon, gets the fishing tackle out of the boot and we both go down to try our luck. After a few hours it seems clear that, whilst Lyris is impressed with the size of Huw’s worm, she is less impressed with the size of the one small trout that he has managed to catch. Still, we had a good time. Huw decides to make amends by purchasing fish and chips from the van which visits this site on Thursdays. They were OK but, even though there were mushy peas as well, it fell short of brilliant. Perhaps we would have preferred a lightly grilled and very fresh trout. Anyway we went for a long walk along the river and were very thirsty when we got back to Myfanwy.
Friday 7th July
10 a.m. Time to leave Kendal. We decide to tour the lakes on our way to Scotland. We drive along Windermere to Ambleside, then on to Keswick and past Derwent Water and on to Cockermouth. Lunch in a layby somewhere, much to the relief of our entourage who were at last able to overtake. The actual ‘lakes’ seemed a little commercialized for our liking. The scenery was spectacular but the road surfaces were pretty abysmal. Every small house along the way seemed designated as a place of historical or cultural importance and was expensive to park next to. Huw parked in the coach park at Ambleside but was given the gypsy’s warning by a bus driver within moments of turning off the engine. Nuff said, we immediately left the stunning views behind and were soon in Carlisle. Hadrian’s Wall was on the map but we didn’t notice it. We must try to be more attentive on the way back. It’s late by now and we are looking around for an overnight stop. The next town turns out to be Gretna Green. After booking in and hooking up at the local site we hit downtown Gretna. Every shop seems something to do with weddings. It’s quite an engaging little place but as we are already married we went back to Myfanwy and barbequed the Aberdeen Angus steak that we bought at the Gretna butchers shop. It tasted excellent with the £5 Wolfblass Cabernet Sauvignon from Asda’s.
Saturday 8th July
We are off early and soon in Dumfries for coffee. What a pleasant place - and motorhome friendly too. There is free parking in the centre of town. It’s a really friendly place and litter free. After a brief shopping session in town we went to Lidl’s on the way out (mainly for the £12 Speyside single malt). The rest of the day was spent slowly touring Dumfries and Galloway, including Castle Douglas, Newton Stewart and Wigtown. The countryside around really was very stunning and uncrowded. Locals tell us that tourists prefer the highlands, but this is a very impressive part of the world. Evening found us in the sea port of Garlieston in the Machars. The weather forecast was for gale force eight wind so we were glad to find a sheltered pitch for the night. It’s not much fun if the van starts rocking as well as the rain hammering down. However, we slept well, parked alongside a high brick wall and under a tree. The only downside was the bits off the sycamore tree brought down by the rain stuck all over the van and blocked the air vents and drain channels.
Sunday 9th July
This morning the wind and rain have both gone. Huw gets his bike out of the boot and goes for the Sunday papers. This sounds good, but it was only a few hundred yards. Trouble is only shop does not open until 9am. However to his great surprise the sleepy village of last night is now packed with hundreds of people who are apparently waiting for the ferry to the Isle of Man. After breakfast, we take the coast road which leads us to Ayr. Ayr turns out to be a splendid Scottish town, and after parking on a central site we take a walk to the shops. It’s clean and calm here. Pedestrians are kings. We have coffee in town and mooch around the shops. It’s a barbeque in the evening. Steak and wine again.
Monday 10th July
We are soon off again with Glasgow in our sights. Huw is hoping to meet someone called ‘Jimmy’ in a bar in the Gorbals and to ask him what he is looking at. Lyris forbids it. We stop briefly at ‘Aldi’ on the outskirts, mainly because neither of us has ever been to one. It’s just like Lidl really. We drive north along the shores of Loch Lomond. This is where the really spectacular stuff starts. We have never seen any scenery like this. Jaw dropping, gob-open stuff. We turn left at the top and find an overnight stop at Inveraray. This is a very attractive town on the banks of Loch Fyne. We were shown to our pitch by a Scotsman on an electric golf buggy and he really was called Jimmy. No, I didn’t ask him what he was looking at. It rained again in the night. Loch Fyne is a sea loch and is tidal. Lots of world famous oyster and mussel beds around Loch Fyne. We had chicken in tomato sauce out of the freezer though.
Tuesday 11th July
We wake up once again to clear weather. Long may it rain at night and be clear all day. Off on the coast road to Oban. Coffee time sees us at Lochgilphead, still on the shores of Loch Fyne (or more accurately a tributary called Loch Gilp). Parked our 6.7 metres of motorhome in their Co-op car park without problem and walked into town. We bought pure Argyll beefburgers in the butchers and more fishing tackle in the harbour tackle shop. Wine stocks were replenished from the Co-op. The coast road from there to Oban was inspirational. One problem on winding roads going up and down is that every lay-by is inclined at about 20 degrees. We are not complaining, but if you stop to enjoy the view and eat, lunch tends to slide off the table. Rubber mats are the answer. Arriving in Oban in the early evening, we camped on the Oban Divers Caravan Park. Tricky to access even by car, it seemed a very quiet and tranquil site. We managed to get a good TV reception, so we can see Eastenders, Big Brother and other essentials.
Wednesday 12th July
Another miracle! Despite what the locals describe as ‘mist’ (rain to you and me) all night, this morning was dry and bright. We are off early to get the brakes seen to.
Yesterday the occasional birdy tweets from the front offside wheel developed into an occasional crunching sound on braking! We went into downtown Oban and soon found a lorry repair shop where, to our great surprise and relief, new brake pads were fitted to the front before lunchtime. Nothing that a great deal of money couldn’t put right! So, we are able to move away confidently and park up at Oban ferry terminal. Lyris goes in and negotiates an ‘Island Hopper’ ticket which is valid for a month. This will allow is to take Myfanwy across to the isle of Mull, so that we can take the passenger ferry to Iona for some spiritual inspiration. Then back to the mainland and up to Mallaig, where we can get another vehicle ferry to Skye – all on the one ticket. The plan is to return from Skye across the toll bridge. Weather forecast says that its going to be better later in the week so we drive up the coast a few miles and find a camping spot on an Atlantic beach at North Ledaig. We manage a walk along the beach watching the sun set over Mull, before dinner. Time to open a bottle of red and settle down for the night.Thursday 13th July
Yesterday we bought a ‘bargain’ gas barbeque. Up to now we had been using the instant trays, but thought it would be cool to have one that plugged in to Myfanwy’s gas bottles. However we unpacked it today and found it had been seriously battered and not fit for purpose. So we went back to the shop who gave us a refund. Then we returned to Oban to get a coffee and wait for the ferry to Mull. Anyway, next to the terminal was an Argos, where we bought a small gas barbeque on special offer - better and cheaper than the one we bought yesterday. The ferry arrived and we crossed smoothly to Mull. It’s nice here. We are parked up on a beach and can see mountains in the evening sunshine. A walk along the rocky beach made us realize that we could easily collect a bucket of mussels for a moules dish. However, we later walked to Craignure Inn, the only pub in the village. There we had the Scallops Mornay with our pint of heavy, and are now relaxing in Myfanwy’s panoramic cab with a post-prandial glass of red wondering how far we can see. We can certainly see Ben Nevis clearly as well as a few others in the distance. On our first day in Mull we have decided that we are not coming home!
Friday 14th July
We decide to have a whole day in Craignure. Get up late and go fishing. Huw has no luck with the rod but in the meantime Lyris has collected a big bag of mussels. We are soon back in the van and the mussels are in fresh water, cleaning themselves. They represent lunch tomorrow. More fishing in the evening, but Huw still has no luck! Irritatingly, a number of passers-by are liberal with their advice. We decide to go back to the site and assemble the new barbeque from Argos and put it through its paces with a couple of steaks from the local butchers, which seem to abound in these parts. We turn in early. Both of us are affected by the fresh air and can’t seem to stay up anymore.
Saturday 15th July
Up very early today, pack up and move off so that we can do the 37 mile drive to Fionnphort, where we can get the small ferry to Iona. The idea of going early is so that we miss the fleet of tourist buses doing the same journey on the single track road. We arrive unscathed in Fionnphort and cross the turbulent Sound of Iona in one piece. As we walk up to the Abbey, Lyris manages to find the headstone of John Smith in the adjacent graveyard. Huge Celtic crosses are in the grounds of the abbey and when we finally sit inside things are calm, apart that is from a few fellow pilgrims.
We just sit quietly and Lyris lights a candle. There is peace here. If you have a prayer, then this seems a good place to say it. We catch the next ferry back to mull and Myfanwy, who was still in the car park. Lyris cooks our mussels in garlic and butter. They turn out to be excellent with a small glass of Columbard Chardonnay. After lunch we drive back to Craignure and then on to Tobermoray where we plan to get a camp before taking the ferry back to the mainland. Problem. The only site there is full and we are advised to camp on Calgary beach which is some 10 miles away. When we get to Calgary all the free beachside slots are full and there is literally no other place to stop on the single track road. We press onwards on the ‘scenic’ road. The road is single track and winds along a cliff edge. Problems occur if the is oncoming traffic. One of you has to drive very close to the edge and you hope its not you. By the time we eventually arrived at a parking spot on the shore of Loch Na Keal neither of us had dared look at any of the spectacular scenery on the way for more than a few seconds. However this overnight spot at Killiechronan was worth the hassle. No electric or TV but we were able to lounge in the cab captains chairs and watch the sun setting over the loch with a glass or two of the Tobermoray single malt which we had the presence of mind to take aboard with our provisions. Actually, it never seems to get darker than twilight in these parts, so it’s difficult to tell when the experience of watching the sunset is over. This is the first night that we have really been relying on Myfanwy’s own power and water reserves and we survive without starting up the generator.Sunday 16th July
We are in no rush to leave this spot and the couple of tent campers who shared it were off long before we got ourselves organized. We watched for the Sea Eagles that folk say are nesting on the loch, Lyris thinks she saw one. We eventually leave and continue on the narrow road to Salen and then on civilized roads back to Craignure. We pick up the papers and decide to go to Grass Point where they say there may also be Sea Eagles. Now, the approach to grass point was a three mile narrow track, which was not even listed as a B road. Even worse there was nowhere to park at the end of the track. We met a minibus full of Bill Oddies who joyfully told us that they had been watching the eagles all afternoon, but they had now gone. Great! We decide to go back down the dirt track to the main road and park up at Loch Don for our snack. After lunch Huw reads about the disgraceful behaviour of minor celebs in the News of the World, while Lyris goes for a walk along the edge of the tidal loch. She returns shortly with a skirtful of mussels, much bigger ones than the first collection. They go into the food store. We decide to return to Craignure camp where we can top up our batteries and relax before going up to Tobermoray ferry tomorrow. Wine is getting low, and its Sunday. We must therefore exercise restraint. We can always walk up the pub I suppose.
Monday 17th July
We wake up to a nice morning. Well, it’s dry anyway. We stow all the gear and drive again to Tobermoray, this time to cross to the mainland and leave Mull behind us on our way to Skye. We take more provisions en route at the Spar and the Co-op. Tobermoray is a pretty harbour town with all the houses painted brightly in different colours. When the ferry arrives it is a small one which takes about eight cars. Myfanwy has to occupy two lanes on the boat and we sit in the cab for most of the crossing. Just as well, as the drizzle and breeze has started and the ferry starts to rock and roll a bit. Once on the mainland we have a drive of about 20 miles in the rain, once again on slightly hairy single track road. We arrive at the shores of Loch Sunart and park up facing the water for the night. Hooray, it’s sunny again. We get some tea and then go down to the beach to see what the fishing is like. The fishing is hopeless, but the 'wee beasties' are biting very well. We go back inside and open the windows with the fly-nets up and lights off. Single malt soon cheers us up briefly before making us sleepy..
Tuesday 18th July
We move on up the coast through spectacular scenery and narrow roads. We stop for lunch near Gleniug. Bright sunshine sees us enjoying a selection of smoked cheeses with white wine. After a nap we are off again and the evening finds us at Portnaluchaig.
After parking up 'beachside' and exploring the coves, a guy from Glasgow parked nearby offers us a pot of squat lobster tails. Now, neither of us have seen these before and they are about the size of langoustines. They were soon boiled in a little garlic and white wine for about one minute and consumed immediately, even though we had had barbequed steak earlier. By this time there were about four couples in the circle of chairs outside the van when the conversation turned to whisky and how everyone had their own preference. The arguments were supported by tasting each others favourite until the early hours. Unwise, I know, but it seemed like a good idea at the time.Wednesday 19th July
Head aches all round this morning and a late start. We can’t risk a second night here in this company. So we drive up to Mallaig to await the ferry to Skye. There is a steam train here and a traditional butcher’s shop where we can fill up the freezer. The ferry arrives and we are again given special treatment because of our size. On the ferry we can see Muck, Eigg and Rum and thankfully the crossing is calm. We drive off onto Skye in brilliant sunshine. It’s hot and the thermometer in the cab reads 36C. It is time to put on the air conditioning, which thankfully cools us down quickly. Good weather means we can see all the excellent views. There are BIG hills here - the Cuillins.
Camp tonight is a field at the top end of Loch Sligachan; near enough to trek to the only building we can see, which is the Sligachan Hotel. We plan a short walk to investigate. However the midge rating at this campsite is the highest we have come across and it seems most sensible to stay indoors. We found ourselves looking out at all the campers around us pitching tents one handed, amongst beautiful scenery whilst slapping themselves all over with their free hand. I know, we wouldn’t be amused if it was us.Thursday 20th July
There are no midges this morning and we drive northwards along the west coast and are soon at the Old Man of Storr, a 49 metre column of rock which fascinates the passer-by.
There is a waterfall nearby and also a full car park where the fitter motorist can park and climb up to the rock itself. Us two are entirely happy with our photos from the road and we press on to Portree, which is a fairly large settlement by Skye’s standards. There is a Co-op here and the town is heaving with tourists. The road north from here however is almost empty. We arrive in Staffin and camp in a field overlooking the bay. It is remote and no one to bother us.
Friday 21st July
There has been ‘mist’ overnight and it is dry but overcast this morning. We drive on around the north Skye coast until we find a preserved crofter’s complex near Hungladder (and no, I am not making these names up). Anyway, Lyris and Huw both enjoyed recognizing the stuff and tools to be found on the farmyards of their childhood. Hardly historical, although maybe it is, and maybe we are too. It is time to move on. We stop for the night on a campsite at Greshornish. It’s only 3pm and the tides in, so we go fishing in Loch Greshornish. It is good fun, but there are no fish. Still, it’s very sunny and there are no midges to speak of.
Saturday 22nd July
We are up before 10am and away, driving south to the Talisker distillery at Carboat. We park in the generous car park go on the official tour. We sample the Talisker and several other single malts, and finally end up buying a couple of discounted bottles at the company shop. A nice young man outside asks in broken English if we can give him and his friend a lift to the bus stop. Whilst we are mulling it over we discover that there are in fact FOUR of them and they have extensive camping and climbing gear with them. Lyris tells them we can’t do it and we quickly move off south, returning to the Sligachan Hotel for lunch. Then we continue south and over the bridge back to the mainland. Goodbye Skye. We camp overnight at Balmacara, Kyle of Lochalsh. A pleasant spot, you guessed it, on the shores of Loch Alsh.
Sunday 23rd July
What a stroke of luck, there is a Spar 50 yards away where Huw can get the Sunday papers. Today we are driving north along the shore of Loch Ness.
We stop at Urquhart Castle for a photo opportunity and we can’t believe our luck - we think we have seen the monster in the distance. Snap, snap. However the pictures are less than conclusive and they may be room for debate. If you click on the picture you get a bigger one to see more detail on the water. We press on north towards Inverness and soon come to the Caledonian Canal. We stop for coffee at a roadside café and the owner tells us that he only runs the café for a few months in the summer and they spend the winter in Crete. We also discuss a number of important political and economic subjects and find solutions for everything. Inverness comes and goes and nightfall finds is in Dingwall, on the Firth of Cromarty. We find a parking spot next to a huge football ground.Monday 24th July
We are debating whether to stay here another day and do a major clothes wash and dry or move on. We decide to go whilst the weather is good and call in at the huge Tesco first to top up on essentials. Then we drive north east to Ardmair Point, near Ullapool. We call in at Ullapool to mooch around on the way. This is a small ferry and fishing harbour. To our surprise there is a huge ocean going cruise ship moored in the harbour. It looks spectacular against the steep craggy backdrop. We finally arrive at Ardmair Point and park up facing the water. After driving up on the leveling blocks we have a 180 degree panoramic view of the idyllic bay and mountains. We immediately decide to stay here a couple of days. The only television here is by satellite and it takes Huw a long while to get it to work. We both go fishing at high tide for an hour or so. After dinner we ignore the TV and spend our even sitting in the cab watching the light fall and sampling the stuff we got from the Talisker Distillery. We discuss why it is so bright, almost like moonlight with no moon, and its well after midnight.
Tuesday 25th July
Slight foggy this morning. We are, that is, not the weather. However, we are up early (7.00am) to fish the high tide. By 8am with no bites Huw is relieved when Lyris goes back to the van and returns with a couple of egg and bacon rolls and two coffees. Who cares about the fish? An advantage of this beach is that there are very few wee beasties. So we decide to have another day of relaxation here on the shores of Loch Kanaird, which is tidal. There are birds, otters, seals and dolphins hereabouts as well as pleasant surroundings.
Wednesday 26th July
We wake up early for more fishing on the morning tide. It’s better than working, this is, sitting here in the morning sun. We pack up, fishless, and head north to Scourie, an unappealing name for a lovely sandy bay. We park more or less on the beach and go for a walk along the slowly sloping sandy shore. Lyris is walking in the warm water and treading amongst prawns and small flat fish. There is a restaurant in Scourie and we decide to eat out. Very nice - fish on the menu at last.
Thursday 27th July
We start off about 9.30am driving north again in bright weather. This part on the highlands really is stunning scenery. The road winds through an endless series of small lochs some of which are covered in large white water lilies. In most, you can see the trout jumping as you pass.
However, the horse fly population is never far away (or ‘clags’ to the scots) so the fishing is not very appealing at the moment. You would probably be shot by local water bailiffs anyway. We drive on without seeing a house for miles and miles. Just after midday we land in Durness, which is almost as far north as you can go on the western side. We can park here on the cliff top overlooking the sandy bay. The problem is that there is a mist rolling off the sea which the guy next to us says has been around all day. Still, we decide to stay the night and hope for improvement. Late in the evening the mist clears to reveal a stunning view and a beautiful beach below us.Friday 28th July
This morning we can see the sea. No mist. We realize that today is the day of the Durness by Lairg Highland Games and Gathering. Excellent. People are throwing the hammer and tossing the caber. We buy a fresh lobster sandwich in the rain and listen to the very wet Ullapool pipe band marching up and down.
Saturday 29th July
We travel east. First stop is Dounreay decommissioned nuclear plant. A fascinating place for techhies and very topical too at the moment as they are planning to site the nuclear waste disposal ‘deep hole’ here. Next we stop off at Thurso. They are having a european street market today and we have a good mooch around and have fresh paella for lunch. We camp at Dunnet Bay. Its wet and windy here. In the late afternoon the weather clears up and we go down to the beach and climb on rocks and generally behave like two year olds. It’s probably the most northerly point of our trip.
Sunday 30th July
Seals are basking at Gill Bay and we stop off to watch them from the lay-by. Next we stop at John O’Groats. It is festival day. We are treated to another Pipe Band and three lifeboats doing a display just off the harbour. Lyris buys two big crabs from a fishing boat unloading on the quayside. They go in a bucket for the pot. £3 for two is a good deal. We travel south now to Wick and then on to Dalchalm where we camp with a golf course between us and the sea. It rains all night.
Monday 31st July
The good news is that its dry and sunny this morning. We find a Morrisons and take aboard food and drink. We see Dunrobin Castle just off the road and decide to call in. We are just in time to watch a display of falconry in the grounds before climbing all over the castle grounds and then lunch. We head on south to Avimore which is a commercialised village for skiers and hill walkers. We give it a miss and motor on to Grantown-on-Spey which is our night halt. Its been dry all day but in the evening the rain sets in. Not to worry, we are on a proper campsite so we plug into the mains, tune in the telly and get out a green bottle.
Tuesday 1st August
Thankfully it’s dry again this morning. We cross the foothills of the Cairngorms to Ballater, which is a small clean town with a posh look to it. We decide to park up early here for the night. Once settled on the council-run camp site we walk into town. We find a butcher shop and get some excellent lamb kebabs and local sausages for the barbeque. We also find an electric kettle in the iron mongers. What’s so amazing about that? It’s a low wattage kettle that’s what. One of the problems of using site electric hook up is that they are often 10 amp or sometimes even 5 amp supplies. So if you plug in a large high speed kettle the lights go out when the supply trips. We have up to now been using a very small travel kettle which needs to be boiled twice to fill one of Lyris’ coffee cups. The new kettle is but into commission immediately.
Wednesday 2nd August
After driving into Ballater to top up with pastries and cream cakes we strike out for Aberdeen. The small road passes for miles through mature birch woods. Neither of us have seen as many birch trees together before. It’s quite a sight and a change from the peat moors we have been crossing. Its starting to rain so we decide to stop at a circle of stones at Tomnaverie. It’s a bit like a mini Stonehenge really. It’s half a mile to walk from the car park in driving wind and rain. We really are serious tourists although Huw has trouble sensing the ley lines because of the adverse weather so we get back inside and have coffee. Finally we arrive in Aberdeen and drive down to the docks. There is nowhere to park Myfanwy. After a while neither of us can remember why Aberdeen was on the itinery anyway so we drive out again. Nothing personal, I am sure it is a nice place. A while later we are in Johnshaven. The drive to the campsite goes through a small twin harbour and around some pretty tight bends on a narrow road. Still we manage and set up camp. Then we walk back into the harbour for a pint before settling down for the night.
Thursday 3rd August
Still going south, we stop at Arbroath. This is a pleasant town where we have coffee and generally give the shops the once over before heading on through some exotic locations. We pass Carnoustie, Dundee, the Tay Bridge and St Andrews. We realize it is time to find somewhere for the night. It’s not easy. The fifth site we visit has just one pitch. It is called Woodland Gardens and is described in the directory as ‘adults only’. It is very well kept but we eye up the residents with suspicion before we are reassured by one of them that ‘adults only’ means having peace and quiet and a refuge from screamers and the small people. A bit of a disappointment really.
Friday 4th August
After a very peaceful night we are in no rush to depart and linger over brekkie whilst we wait for the washing to dry. The journey down to the Forth Bridge is straightforward. Huw is crestfallen when it becomes apparent that we are going over a new bridge rather than the famous metal bridge which is only for trains. Still we get a good view of it anyway. Over the other side we go onto the Edinburgh ‘city by-pass’. This is really their equivalent of the M25, complete with holdups. Eventually, we reach Musselbrough after circumnavigating the city. We are booked in here for two nights. Tomorrow we spend the day in Edinburgh.
Saturday 5th August
We are off early on a warm sunny day. We get £2.30 all day bus passes and have a nice trip through Portobello into the city. We first take in the Royal Botanic Gardens before hopping on another bus into the old town. It is Fringe Festival time here. The streets are manic. Packed with people watch street theatre and entertainers. We have a good old walk around, taking in the atmosphere before collapsing on an outside table of Creelers Restaurant. The young lady brings a bottle of white which revives us and we decide to stay put with a further bottle until they open at 5.30. We share the lobster and can just about see the guy opposite juggling fire on a 8ft unicycle. Revived, but still without energy we stay for the cheeseboard and single malts. This restaurant will appear in my list under ‘recommended’. It’s getting late so we take the bus home. Foolishly we decide to take the short cut from the bus stop to the site. This involves climbing a wall, an electric fence, a ripped shirt and generally getting filthy. It was unwise maybe, but essential to round off the day. Just time for one more malt before retiring.
Sunday 6th August
It is time to leave Edinburgh and we are soon in North Berwick for coffee. It’s a charming seaside place where the plan is to visit Seabird World. However, all the car parks and street parking is displaying signs saying ‘no vehicles over 7’6” tall’. We follow the signs to the coach park, which turns out to be a couple of miles away so we give it a miss and drive on. We take in Tantallon Castle and Bass Rock before parking up near the beach at Dunbar. We walk into Dunbar and have lunch in the pub. On the way back we walk around the coastal path and see a ‘gallery’ of kittywakes nesting on the harbour wall. Huw is still knackered from walking around Edinburgh yesterday and is glad to get back to the van.
Monday 7th August 2006
This morning we have coffee in Berwick on Tweed before pressing on to Lindisfarne, the Holy Island.
We drive across the causeway and visit the ruined priory. We also get snaps of Lindisfarne Castle in the distance. When we couple of aging hippies have had our atmospheric thrills, we drive back to find the causeway under a few feet of sea water. Only then do we read the tide table carefully enough to realize that we are staying here for at least the next few hours. We park up near the dunes and have lunch and a short knap. We then realize that a couple of landrovers have crossed even though there is still at least a foot of water and about an hour to go. Now we determine that Myfanwy’s chassis is higher than any landrover, so we take the plunge.We are amongst the first few across, creating our very own bow wave and then we pass the queues waiting on the mainland side with some flourish.
Who loves ya, baby? We are back in dear old blighty now, of course, and motor on down the Northumberland coastline. We pass Bamburgh Castle and find a pitch at Proctors Stead, which is near to Craster Harbour. It’s been fine all day but has suddenly turned too chilly for a barbeque.
We cook our home made beefburgers indoors and enjoy them with a glass of merlot cabernet.
Tuesday 8th August 2006
The sun is shining on the righteous again this morning. Our plan ‘A’ was to motor past Newcastle, Gateshead and Chester-le-street, on the A1(M). Lyris has a new route and we hang a right onto the A69 and find ourselves in the medieval market town of Hexham for coffee and very nice too. After a quick look around we are off on a B road climbing up the Dales. When we get the top and can see down the length of Teesdale we have to stop and enjoy the view. We drive along Teesdale to the end almost without seeing a soul. Huw is looking forward to turning onto the A66 and an improved road surface. Once there we fall behind a tractor which we follow for miles in a queue of traffic at 25 mph. Approaching Richmond, still on the A66, Huw triumphantly roars past the tractor, only to realize the campsite is only about 200 yards further on. OK, so who cares, we are both knackered and quickly set up camp for the night. It’s comfortable here, if a little near to the main road.
Wednesday 9th August 2006
We wake up early. Something is not quite right. There is an all pervading whiff. Lyris, being a farmer’s girl, is quickly able to confirm that pig slurry has been sprayed on a nearby field. We are traveling south on the A1 with a minimum of delay. It’s not until we are in Thirsk that we feel like a little late brekkie. Thirsk is a nice enough racecourse town. As we leave it heading for Scarborough, we approach a steep escarpment at Sutton Bank. A road sign clearly says ‘Caravans Prohibited’ and a 25% incline. We wonder if it means motorcaravans as well, but press on regardless. A mile later Myfanwy is climbing the steepest pitch (with U bends) that either of us have seen. We are in 1st gear for over a mile but are not holding up the traffic. Soon we are rounding the top and can see for miles, and I mean miles, across the North Yorkshire moors. Pickering comes and goes and we stop in the park and ride car park at Scarborough. The bus is every 10minutes and we are soon admiring the views from town over the lovely bay. We dally in the town before pressing on down to Skipsea for the night. We end up in a farmer’s field with one other resident. Still, it’s quieter than the holiday campsite up the road, which was full. The guy was chatty and friendly enough and connected Myfanwy up to the mains for us and showed us around the toilet facilities in the old stables. It’s time to tune in the telly and open the white. Wine stocks are running low but we have substantial provisions of single malt.
Thursday 10th August 2006
We are ever traveling south now and there’s not much to see until we cross over the Humber Road Bridge. A short journey south from there and we are on the Fens. It’s flat and windy here, with deep ditches at the roadside with no hedges. We reach our overnight stop at Littleport, near Ely. The pitch is on the banks of the Great Ouse. This is flat and nothing like Scotland!
Friday 11th August 2006
Sadly, today we are driving down the M11, M25 and are soon back in the driveway. It’s been good. We have done the Borders, the Islands, the Highlands, Loch Ness, Loch Lomond, Highland Games, John O’Groats, Edinburgh Festival, Iona, Lindisfarne, Skye Bridge, Tay Bridge, Forth Bridge, Humber Bridge and more besides. We will be home for a while now whilst Lyris has her course of treatment and we plan the Ireland Trip.
